We have seen even stock EVO X’s under spirited driving blow up the master cylinder, our latest design addresses this issue. This DIY guide will help you get it done right.
evox_gsr_clutch_master_cyl_install_guide (view file for pictures or print)
10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm end wrenches and sockets
12mm deep well socket & 3” extension
Vice grips or channel locks (Tongue & groove plier)
Various common screw drivers
Needle nose pliers (Curved end preferred)
End grinder with burr bit or small angle grinder or Dremel with cut off wheel
Below is a burr bit on an end grinder, this is what I used and preferred but please wear safety glasses when grinding
or cutting. This is a cold style of cutting so no sparks to cause fires like other grinding methods. This can be used on
an air or electric end grinder and cost about $30 for a good sharp on that will last quite some time.
The only material needed is some DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid to refill your reservoir’s when you’re done.
Before we get started on the master cylinder we need to clear a few items out of the way to make life easier and
less frustrating. I won’t go into detail on the basics just an overview.
1. Read all the way through this install guide before beginning.
2. Verify you have all the right parts
3. Disconnect the positive battery terminal
4. Remove the strut bar
5. Remove air intake back to turbo
6. Remove positive distribution block and ECU (Including brackets)
7. Remove boost solenoids and vacuum lines
You should have everything that’s in the picture below; (Plus DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid)
Now with those items out of the way we can start on removing your existing clutch lines. Below is your slave cylinder
remove them 12mm bolt holding the stainless hard line on and start pulling the line back to the firewall.
When you get to one of these clips pull firmly with vise grips or channel locks, then pull the line to you and up to remove
line from bracket.
This little gem is your brake booster and brake master cylinder, and it has to be removed.
First pull the harness off and tuck it out of the way.
Now remove the hardline using a 12mm end wrench, you will have to get these pulled out of the way later.
Now unbolt the brake master cylinder
Remove the hose off the reservoir
Pull and remove! Keep in mind brake fluid eats paint so any drips wipe off ASAP.
Here is what your left with, its now time to move inside the car and get down with the pedals.
On the brake pedal you have to remove this pin that holds the brake booster fork.
Now remove these four 12mm bolts
Those bolts just freed up the brake booster to be pulled (Remember to be careful not to bend the hard lines too much)
Now since your still under the dash before you pull the boost reach over and unhook your MC’s arm it just pushes off.
With the big booster out and arm for the MC unhooked grab its body and twist / pull it out.
Now that there are two gaping holes in your firewall let’s do some grinding! See the nubs grind them off it’s that simple
they are holding studs you need out of the way.
What finished looks like
Time to bolt it down now and you may need a second person to hold back up for you
Notice the orientation in the picture above and be sure you orientation is correct it’s a tight fit
Now that the brake booster is back on its time to go put its 4 bolts and pin back in as well as get the MC arm secured to
the clutch pedal. You know that weird little “L” shaped piece; here’s what it’s for. Slide it over the ball and cinch it down.
A little better view or orientation and part fitment to keep in mind when installing.
Now route the braided line back to the slave cylinder mounted on the transmission and install the banjo fitting.
Now you should be ready to bleed the system, I suggest using a vacuum bleeder to ensure you have it done correctly.
You want to bleed from the slave cylinder on the transmission; it has a bleeder nipple on the top side of it.
Loosen the bleeder and pump the clutch a few times then hold. Add fluid to the reservoir as needed and repeat until
clutch is firm and actuating the slave as designed. If by chance the slave gets stuck use a screw driver to pry it back.
Once you have that bled of its time to move onto the brakes since you depleted that reservoir as well. Start with the
farthest brakes and work your way forward. Passenger side rear – driver side rear – passenger side front – driver side
front. Repeat until your brakes don’t feel spongy.
As always double check everything before going for a test run and feedback is always appreciated.
Parts can be found at;
EVO X Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade Kit
Magnus went through extensive testing to develop the Evo X Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade kit (CMC) in 2010 for LHD and RHD. BEWARE other companies that have duplicated this product with inferior parts. Magnus has the best components and is designed to outlast your car. The problem is the original plastic clutch master cylinder on the Mitsubishi Evo X was not engineered to handle the increased pressure exerted by higher strength racing clutches. The original which is made of plastic, can break when under normal use or even more so when combined with with an aftermarket clutch eventually splits leaving you stranded without a clutch.
The originator and rated best in design and performance the Magnus CMC Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade kit, replaces the OEM clutch master cylinder in a Mitsubishi Evo X GSR with a stronger more reliable setup, allowing you to upgrade to a stronger clutch while eliminating the possibility of failure. This kit is designed to adapt the clutch master cylinder out of the Evo VIII & Evo IX into the Evo X. The thick T6061 aluminum construction eliminates any deflection from the heaviest of racing clutches. It’s solid, single surface design dissolves any fatigue points giving the setup a longevity over any other kit on the market. One benefit from this assembly is the innovative pedal joint assembly found only on the Magnus kit. This hard anodized billet aluminum design eliminates the need to cut off the original pedal ball joint to accommodate a heim joint. It also provides you with the ability to adjust pedal height with ease while safely locking the assembly in seconds. Anybody who has been on their back trying to work on their pedal assembly under a dash will appreciate how easy this makes the entire process. All you do is break the jam nut screw remove the clip, pull off the ball-joint and thread to your desired clutch pedal height. The elegance of this design is that it allows you to test the height rather quickly without committing to tightening the locking clip until you are ready. Change the height, test the pedal and adjust some more. This is the easiest, most convenient, and more accurate way to control the height of your pedal. Included in the kit is a one piece braided stainless steel clutch line that upgrades and completely replaces the factory clutch line in the car. You can order the Mitsubishi OEM master cylinder through us choose to order it through your local dealer to expedite delivery times. If you intend to order the master cylinder yourself, do not replace it with a re-manufactured or aftermarket master cylinder. We did a year of testing on the various products to find that only the OEM factory Mitsubishi Part MR491945 holds up over time. This kit is configured in a right hand or left hand drive option to accommodate our worldwide client base. Please specify if you need a right hand drive configuration in the choices before checkout, or contact us. If you do not specify, we ship the left hand drive setup.
AVAILABLE WITH OR WITHOUT MASTER CYLINDER WE SUGGEST YOU PURCHASE THE OEM MASTER CYLINDER FROM US IT IS AVAILABLE IN THE DROP DOWN. OTHER SCUMBAG SHOPS (MAP PERFORMANCE) SELL A KNOCK OFF VERSION OF THIS KIT WITH TERRIBLE QUALITY PARTS BUY THE ORIGINAL FROM US AND DON’T BE LEFT STRANDED ON THE ROAD.
- T6061 aluminum black anodized adapter plate with dual surface design.
- Innovative quick adjustment connector to change your pedal height.
- Hard Anodized ball joint with stainless steel retaining clip
- Zero gasket / high tolerance design eliminates points of failure or the need to replace gaskets that will fail long before this kit will.
- Includes a full one piece stainless braided clutch line.
- Right or Left hand configurations available.
- With or without an OEM Evo VIII/IX master cylinder supplied, if you want to source your own.
- Mitsubishi Evolution X GSR LHD
- Mitsubishi Evolution X GSR RHD
- MMCDRV1002 – CMC kit with master cylinder included Left Hand Drive
- MMCDRV1003 – CMC kit with master cylinder included Right Hand Drive
- MMCDRV1005LH – CMC kit NO master Left Hand Drive
- MMCDRV1005RH – CMC kit NO master Right hand Drive
Correct Camshaft Control = More Power
First used and tested in our Famous EVO X build to reach 1000 hp consistently and safely.
The catastrophic failures tied to MIVEC when upgrading the cams and valves springs has been a known issue for many years. Shortly after the issue arose we had come up with a solution. Higher engine acceleration rates cause the PID of the camshaft control to be unable to operate within its limits. Adding larger turbo’s that spool up above 4500 RPM negate advantages of having MIVEC control. Deleting the MIVEC altogether gave us consistent camshaft control. Locking the cam gears in place results in smoother power delivery as the ECU is not constantly trying to readjust for camshaft error. Consistent high rpm tuning and camshaft adjustability result in being able to dial in your power band more effectively.
For Pricing click here: 4B11 ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS/MIVEC DELETE.
When upgrading to larger camshafts and stiffer valve springs, the original exhaust MIVEC cam gear is prone to failure. We highly recommend replacing one or both.
- Consistent high RPM tuning
- Ability to position camshafts at correct lobe centers for increased power
- No more broken camshafts
- No more broken cam gears
- No more failures affiliated with MIVEC